Suche 308D (nicht CDI) Gebrauchsanweisungen

[kamaleon]

Hallo liebe Forum-Mitglieder
Ich habe die Sprinter 308D von 1996. Es ist das Paket-Köfferaufbau von Unternehmen FAWI (wie Kögel).
Können Sie mir bitte sagen. Was war der Original Batterie - 88Ah, 92Ah? Meine Wechselstromgenerator ist Bosch 90A.
Auch möchte ich das Öl Mercedes empfiehlt für diesen Motor (OM601) wissen - es ist 10W40?
Auch wenn möglich konnen Sie mir sagen, wie viele Liter kann der Tank?
Ich habe nicht das Gebrauchsanweisungen mit technischen aus dem Wagen. Hat jemand eine PDF von diesem Dokument?

[kamaleon]

Hallo wie geht's?

Ich suche immer noch der Betriebsanleitung im PDF. Es ist zum Verkauf auf ebay, aber für 35 € + Versand. Ich spreche kein Deutsch, so kann ich nicht dieses Geld wegwerfen
http://www.ebay.de/itm/MERCEDES-Sprinte ... 4abb8b3659
http://www.ebay.de/itm/MERCEDES-SPRINTE ... 4abb33d1cf

[kamaleon]

Ich suche noch

[benjamin]

Ich spreche kein Deutsch, so kann ich nicht dieses Geld wegwerfen

Ich suche noch

...est-ce que tu cherches un manuel en français ou allemand jouerai aussi?

Handbuch auf Deutsch oder Französisch?

LG
salutations,
benjamin

[kamaleon]

Ben je suis sur un forum allemand donc en allemand bien entendu...
... maintenant si tu as en français je vais pas cracher sur la soupe
(voire même en anglais ou espagnol ou portugais!!!)

[kamaleon]

Hi to everybody

Right now my van has used 10W40 semi-synthetic, MB-approved oil (229.1). Van has 180.000 Km

Does anybody here use 5W40? or 5W30? I heard it's not a good idea to use this on old motor. But maybe it's better when you drive short distances like me? Also for consumption it's better?

[benjamin]

I've actually been using 5W40 for about four years in all our VW LTs (2.8l MWM and 2.5l VW-Engines). No Prob's so far, engines have been running around 30-60k km and no issues.

Only flaw - if you'll call it one - is that the vacuum pump & maybe hydraulic valve lash adjuster elements (Hydrostössel) have a little longer time to loose their ticking noise...can't tell for sure if it was better before since it's been a long time allready.

for about two months now I'm using even a 0W40 in one of our LTs (an old AHD, the one with the starting issues, see my other thread somewhere on this forum).

In terms of oil pressure build-up when starting the engine, this 0W40 works like a charm...about 1-2 revolutions of the crankshaft and voila - you've got oil pressure (oil pressure indicator light in the dashboard turns off), even if it's -10 outside. Nice.

No longterm experiences whatsoever...but I personally like that oil.

Engine oil seems to be a constant object of endless discussions in the internet..., I always keep the old proverb in mind: better drive the "wrong" oil than no oil at all...but that's fairly logical, n'est-ce pas?

I'd give it a try and use another oil at your next oil change. Then check things like oil pressure build up (before - after, maybe even with a stopwatch), noise, oil consumption.

I've always used the liqui moly engine clean when switching from a classic oil to somethin full synthetic as a 5W40 or a 0W40.

One downside worth to mention is that one of my old AGK engines (15 years, 270'000km of [ab]use) seems now to "sweat" oil out of every joint surface...even so far that you see small poodles of engine oil in the morning...but as I think of it, I maybe just have to retighten the oil-filter, maybe that's where the leak is.

Worst case would be a fatal engine failure a few 1000km after oil switching...I'm sure everybody's scapegoat will be the new oil then...

Decide by yourself - your sprinter has almost 200'000km on the odometer...no warranties you'd have to consider, just your money.


IMO, go ahead, perhaps use a engine flush like liqui moly etc., check if you "like" the new oil and then maybe rethink (I haven't regretted my decision so far).

I for myself like them new oils...

Kind regards,
Salutations,

benjamin

[kamaleon]

Hi my friend

Your motors are a bit different to mine right? Are they turbo or atmospheric?

Engine oil seems to be a constant object of endless discussions in the internet...

I concur! So let's start another one... round one... FIGHT!!!

I always keep the old proverb in mind: better drive the "wrong" oil than no oil at all...but that's fairly logical, n'est-ce pas?

Yes that goes without saying

OK so here's the deal here's what I've *heard*
- synthetic are OK no matter how old / kind of motor you have AS LONG as they've been used to using them oils (not my case)
- if you use a synthetic oil on a car that has a lot of miles and it isn't used to it - you can damage the motor because
a) new oil will be too detergent and will cleanse too much stuff and could fuck things up
b) new oil is thinner and can leak through old joints, tubings etc - I guess this is what's happening to you

My question is: if I swap to fully-synthetic oil say 5W40 and it starts leaking, will it be reversible? If I go back to 10W40 are the leaks gonna be stopped or will they be done for good?

In my case I might just stick to 10W40. It's cheaper too so it might be a better compromise to swap oils more often (every year) rather than waiting to arrive at the 10.000Km mark - I will never drive those many Ks in one year!! The thing is that most of the times I drive for small rides hence my curiosity in knowing if 5W40 would be better for my motor in that case...

Regarding the moly-product engine flush how exactly do you do it? Mix it with the oil drive for a couple hundred Kms and then swap oil + filter?
I've also heard of an "old-school" way of flushing your engine: bleed the oil out then fill the motor with diesel, turn the engine on for 2 minutes then stop it, flush diesel straight away and watch how dirty it comes out then proceed with filling up with new oil...
I must admit I'm a bit afraid of trying this haha
I also thought of taking off my oil pan and cleaning it but I guess it's not just a matter of screwing it back on, there's a right way of doing it right?

[benjamin]

ha, good ol' kameleon and me having a chat in english and discussing oil matters - perfect, that's how it goes, folks!

My reading and my understanding of the whole "oil-matter" comes to the same conclusion as you do, no one couldn't have summarized it better than you did:

- synthetic are OK no matter how old / kind of motor you have AS LONG as they've been used to using them oils (not my case)
- if you use a synthetic oil on a car that has a lot of miles and it isn't used to it - you can damage the motor because
a) new oil will be too detergent and will cleanse too much stuff and could fuck things up
b) new oil is thinner and can leak through old joints, tubings etc - I guess this is what's happening to you

Best thing would have been to drive an engine from it's "cradle" throughout it's hopefully long-lasting life on synthetic oil only (as this type of oil is said to leave the least residues in the engine and therefore be best for it, among all the other so-called benefits - or so people [the commercials] tell...). Sadly, the automobile industry isn't necessecarily as ambitious in keeping old cars in good shape as they are selling new ones (IMO)..., or maybe it's the fact that higher-quality engine oils haven't been widely available/affordable when our "old" cars were built.

In german language there's the term "Um-Ölen" which is best translated by "oil-switching"...a task that among the hope for the benefits of using a synthetic oil (less wear-off of engine parts [?], better lubrification, better viscosity at low temperatures, quicker build-up of oil pressure, longer oil-change intervalls,...shall I continue? ) brings with it the risk you mentioned above as a) & b).

a) is a bit like a cardiac thrombosis, a clog set snuggly somewhere in the vascular system of the engine (e.g. the oil-feed lines) suddenly breaks free, just to be transported downstream and block the nearest narrow path. So told to happen in some type of crankshafts where oil feed lines aren't straight from hole-to-hole but drilled at blind angles. Sounds like a worst case to me, even the more if it could have been avoided or at least delayed by not switching oil type. Never knew anybody whose engine had to suffer such a terrible fate, but in the internet's collection of tales much a story like this is told & read.

b) an annoying occurance that seems to be rather common when switching oils, especially at older engines (maybe worn out more or manufactured in less exact tolerances, who knows...). Could also be due to the new oil flushing away parts of "dirt & grit" or just residues in the oil system that up to now served as a kind of a seal. Once it's gone, the engine starts to leak.

I for my part haven't experienced heavy leaking in most of our cars - it's really not much more than a kind of an "sweating" of engine oil, nothing a piece of cloth couldn't take care of once in a while. If I'm honest, I can't tell if it's really worse than before when we drove plain vanilla 10W40...a commercial engine tends to be grimy as a natural state...if I want it to be clean, I clean it, simple as that.

My question is: if I swap to fully-synthetic oil say 5W40 and it starts leaking, will it be reversible? If I go back to 10W40 are the leaks gonna be stopped or will they be done for good?

Hmm, never really thought that one through... Maybe it's possible but would take a while...and then, mixing oils back and forth wouldn't be reasonable if we wanted to gain benefits by driving synthetic oils (respectivly not having to live with the downsides of plain oil). As a said, it's not like you'll loose a Liter a week or so, leaking on the floor, it's more an aesthetical thing, I guess.

In my case I might just stick to 10W40. It's cheaper too so it might be a better compromise to swap oils more often (every year) rather than waiting to arrive at the 10.000Km mark - I will never drive those many Ks in one year!! The thing is that most of the times I drive for small rides hence my curiosity in knowing if 5W40 would be better for my motor in that case...

That's a very good point now! I really considered the same method but then decided to go for & try a 5W40 for our cars. It was just too attractive to have less tear & wear on the engine (...an thus an extended lifespan, etc.). Right now I think (to come back to my "proverb" and slightly modify it...), there really isn't a wrong type of oil - it's more like there isn't the perfekt type of oil. I guess it's more important to drive an engine oil at all (...a-hem) and to change it periodically. Better more often than not (but not so often that it would be more expensive than driving a HQ-oil for a longer time, you get the point...).

There is one thing I really appreciate about the 5W40 and now even the 0W40 I'm putting in our car's engines: it's the fact that you almost instantly (...or so it feels) have oil pressure once you've started the engine - even when cold-starting. I know, it's from a highly personal point of view (and therefor not necessarily scientific) but I think an oil that lubricates an engine faster helps keeping it in good shape.
It's common sense (...according to various sources) that the moment of greatest stress on engine parts (main bearings, crankshaft, cylinder/pistons, camshaft etc.) occurs when they're not [actively] lubricated - which happens either in the first seconds after (cold) start-up...or when you're run out of oil.

The first event takes place every time you turn the ignition and fire up your engine (the second one hopefully never...the only person I know who broke a car this way was my cousin's ex-girlfriend)...

You know those scary-annoying pop-ups that once were popular on certain webpages...the ones that tell you how old you'll get and how many years you'll have left to life? Well, I don't believe they work, but I know there are certain behavioural factors that are more stressful for human health than others. So there be things that are more stressfull for your car's engine than others and hence influencing it's life-expectancy.
I guess, the number of cold starts in an engine's life is such a factor...that's also why the status of an engine shouldn't only be judged by mileage...it's rather the number of cold starts over an engine-lifetime (i.e. the number of times it has had to run dry, even for only a short moment) that effects wear on an engine (to my knowledge). So the best thing we can do is helping our engines making this very uncomfortable moment as easy a we can by making it as short as possible -i.e. have oil pressure / lubrification very fast.

So IMO it's a good thing to use a relativly low-viscose (=easy-flowing) engine oil at low temps (5W..., 0W40) above all due to it's superior cold start properties.

That's my 2p, hope it helps,
feels good to practise english writting skills in order not to get too rusty once in a while...

If there's anything, feel free to write/ask;
we pretty hijacked the shit out of your old "I'm-looking-for-a-manual-for-my-308-(non-CDI)"-Thread, but it felt like the right thing to do...so let's do it again, if it's necessary...

Best wishes,

benjamin

[kamaleon]

Hi there

OMG what a quality post
Great stuff! I think you pretty much summed it all and I guess I'll leave it like that without anything to add
And hey I fully assume the right to hijack my own thread so no problem

[kamaleon]

I have one question to ask... is my van EURO 1 or EURO 2 class?
Also in CO2 emissions does anybody know if it's more or less than 250g/km? Thanks!

[kamaleon]

So benjamin, did you tighten your oil filter? Is it still leaking?
And what is the exact Liqui Moly product you use? have a nice weekend.

[benjamin]

I'm using the Liqui Moly Motor Clean:
http://www.liqui-moly.ch/liquimoly/prod ... nt&land=DE

Applicate when engine is warm (ideally after a longer cruise etc.). Be sure to check if you're able to untighten the oil drain screw...depending on who thightened it, it can be pretty darn hard to get it loose...you might have to lift the front of your vehicule using a jack lift (Wagenheber) or something else to allow the use of a lever (e.g. a lenght of steel tube...etc.) to apply enough torque to get it loose.

Once you made sure that you'll somehow get the old oil out of your engine (...and it's hopefully still warm enough after this...), just pour the 500ml (or so) of one bottle of Motor Clean into the oil system of your engine (same way as you pour in oil) and let it the run about 10-15 in idle. DO NOT drive around when the detergents are in the oil system...I guess the lubrification properties of the Oil-Motor Clean mixture aren't quite up to high performance orgies...

After this just let the oil out of the engine by releasing the oil drain screw...perhaps you'll notice a bit more of a greasy, slimy, even bubbly quality to your old engine oil...that's because of the detergents Motor Clean brought with it. If you're really curious about what you flushed out of your engine, put a light fabric (no cotton, synthetics are better) big enough to cover the entire floor & walls in the container/box you'll use to catch the old oil (do this before you'll catch the old oil in it). Afterwards use this as a filter like cheese-makers do and see what remains in the filter...(be warned, it's quite a dirty ongoing...).

Then just go on as with a normal oil change...perhaps (even if it's just for your own conscience...) sacrifice half a Liter or so of your new synthetic oil before putting in the oil screw - to flush out the last remains of slime and grime on the bottom of the oilpan. New Copper Washer, New Filter, New Oil...there you go...

If you're over-cautious or just love your engines, like I do, disconnect the 12V wire to your fuel injection pump (in order not to inject fuel and not to produce any ignitions) and do as much turns of the engine just by letting the starter crank...until you got oil pressure on your engine (...dashboard light goes off).

That's about it...feel free to ask further questions anytime, it's a pleasure.

Best regards,

Benjamin

(PS: you're not by any chance Canadian...? Just thought since you seem quite familiar speaking/writing both French and English easily...)

[kamaleon]

Another top quality post by benjamin, keep 'em coming
Great tutorial on how to make grime "cheese" i loved it

I guess I got everything. Last person to undo the oil drain screw? Now that would have been me. Not with a torque wrench, I admit, but I do have a Facom one now waiting to be called into action for the 1st time under my supervision.

Ok so let's say I'm to take this to the next level... what about removing the oil pan and cleaning it? Would that be overkill? I guess I'd need a new gasket?

Also I didn't know my ignition pump had electrical wiring to it? Bosch PES inline pump...?

Do you currently have all those vehicles listed on your signature? what are you a removal company?

PS: naah dawg I'm from Lisbon, PT, wesside baby
PS2: and I finally found the "Gebrauchsanweisungen" in french hooray! Now looking for the "maintenance booklet"...